Knowledge in all forms seems to wax and wane according to the dynamics of the times that we live in. This is consistent on all subjects but in particular, with dog behavior knowledge. We have come so far with an understanding of dog behavior and how to modify it, yet old school techniques and thought processes remain in the forefront of the public eyes and ears. The past refuses to die a proper death and dogs pay for this with their psyches and sometimes, their lives.
The only part of the ancient dog behavior knowledge that is truly accurate yet hasn’t seemed to be retained as common sense knowledge is to allow dogs to actually be dogs. Now they must be little furry humans who have reasoning powers beyond their species, along with impeccable and preprogrammed manners.
We expect dogs to live serenely and effortlessly in a world of human’s making without showing any signs of being dogs. Then we are surprised when they act like dogs. We need to learn to respect dogs for who they are rather than the fantasy of who we think they should be. Lassie is a fallacy, made up for good ratings.
The renowned dog behavior expert Jean Donaldson once said, “Just a generation ago if you went near a dog when he was eating and the dog growled, somebody would say, “Don’t go near the dog when he’s eating! What are you, crazy?” Now the dog gets euthanized. Back then, dogs were allowed to say “No!” Dogs are not allowed to say no anymore. They can’t get freaked out, they can’t be afraid, they can never signal, “I’d rather not.” We don’t have any kind of nuance with regards to dogs expressing that they are uncomfortable, afraid, angry, in pain, worried or upset. If the dog is ever anything other than completely sunny and goofy every second, he goes from a nice dog to an “AGGRESSIVE DOG”.
Photo Courtesy of Rebecca Hilbert
This is completely and utterly accurate. It appears that the more we progress into modern times, the more that we expect dogs to be some sort of furry humans that can make critical thinking decisions at the drop of a hat. My dogs are super smart but they are not humans and I don’t expect human intelligence level decisions from them. Especially when in relation to behaviors and situations that I have not spent an iota of time training them for.
Dog’s lives can only be enriched with spreading this information to the masses so here we go. Please accept your dogs for the wonderful creatures that they are. Understand that we expect them to live in our world so it behooves us to spend time learning about how they learn so that we can effectively communicate with them. They deserve nothing less than us safely and humanely teaching them to how to live in a world of our choosing. This is nothing more than we would want for ourselves. Below are the just the high points. There is so much more but for now, this will suffice.
Dogs are entitled to have their meals uninterrupted. This means you, dear dog parent. Placing your hands in your dog’s food bowl only makes them annoyed, not under some delusion that you are some deity that deserves their undying gratitude. If someone repeatedly or even regularly but infrequently stuck their hands in your dinner plate, are you more likely to consider violence against them or think them your master? Enough said. (This also goes for any high value or not recreational chew items that you give your dog. If your dogs threatens you when you are near these items, hire a professional.) If you truly want your dog to think you are a rock star, then drop a piece of boiled chicken in their kibble bowl anytime you are near it and then you will get kudos from your dog, to all of his friends. Thinking that the former is the way to go is actually a really effective way to create the resource guarding that you are trying in vain to prevent. Don’t go there.
Along those same lines, dogs are also entitled to sleep uninterrupted. I could retire young if I had a dollar for every single time I got a complaint about someone’s dog growling/snapping when touched/petted/hugged while sleeping. I don’t know about you but I am also pretty prone to striking out unintentionally if touched unexpectedly while deeply sleeping. Add to this equation a newly adopted dog who has not yet formed a relationship of trust with his current humans and you have a serious potential for problems with this expectation. Don’t expect more of your dog while sleeping than you would expect of a human new to you. Everyone deserves some body respect.
Dogs are not robots. It is an extremely unrealistic expectation to want a dog to walk by your side without a leash in a public place. Occasionally, I get asked “what breed of dog can I get” who can do this. None. Breed has nothing to do with this. It’s a relationship based behavior, as well being a lovely goal to aim for in areas appropriate for off leash fun that allow this to be done legally. However, this is AFTER a whole lot of incremental and lengthy training to get to that point. But understand that even then you take your chances, again, DOGS ARE NOT ROBOTS. They will weigh their options and if that deer (or turkey or bear, etc.) appear to be more rewarding in the moment to chase, they will do so, regardless of how much training time you have invested. No individual of any species is 100% exactly the same each moment of each day. No matter how many times I have allowed my superbly trained dogs off leash in any given situation outside of secure fencing, I have 100% of the time breathed an sigh of immense relief when reattaching the leash. Free will, dogs have it too. This same theory applies to allowing one’s dog off leash in unfenced yards as well as expecting them to stay somewhere in public unsupervised without any constraints or anywhere at all without constraints for that matter, supervised or unsupervised.
Puppies are babies. Babies of any species take time to grow up. This means poop and pee to clean up for months, without a complaint. You signed up for this, remember? House training takes time. Manners training takes time. If you have human children, you know they were not “done cooking” in a week or two or even a month or two. Human kids do attend school for twelve years for a reason! Learning is incremental. Dogs don’t need twelve years to learn to potty appropriately and to have decent manners, thankfully. But they do need for you to not be impatient with their progress. They do need for you to understand that they have developmental stages and that those developmental stages all have different levels of cognitive powers. Do not expect your 12 week old puppy to have the level of understanding or the attention span that an adult dog does. Here is a good place to read about developmental stages.
Socialization is a very misunderstood word in the dog world. Let’s say that you were forced as a child to go a lot of places that scared you and you were very stressed inwardly at all of these places yet you never showed how you felt outwardly. Would that then mean that you were socialized to these places simply because you were repeatedly exposed to them? The adult you knows perfectly well that you do not like these places that you went as a child and would now go out of your way to avoid them. And at some point when you felt pushed beyond all endurance, you would likely have a meltdown at such a place if forced to go again against your will as an adult. This is exactly what happens to puppies who tolerate places/things/people/experiences as a puppy and then one day when they feel safe with their own voice, “speak up” about how they really feel about these situations. In a nutshell, exposure does not equal socialization. The exposure has to be enjoyable to fall into that category. Make your puppy’s socialization enjoyable.
If you are a normal well adjusted person, you do not like everyone you meet. It’s an impossible expectation, am I right? Then why expect your dogs to like all dogs? Most dogs actually do not want to greet other dogs when out and about. Of course there are many that do, but they are the exception rather than the rule. For the most part, dogs generally like to spend time with their humans rather than other dogs, even if they do sometimes enjoy the company of other dogs. The take away here is that polite dog parents do not allow their dogs to approach other dogs in a huge variety of situations such as on walks, in the veterinarian’s waiting room, in pet supply stores, anywhere really unless this is a mutually agreed upon by the humans and dogs type of situation.
Most dogs generally don’t enjoy being touched by strangers. There, I said it. I realize that this comes as a surprise to many people but it’s quite true. After all, YOU generally don’t want to be touched by strangers, do you? So please do your dog a favor and don’t allow them to be intruded upon.
You are a social being. You like going to a variety of places. Your preference is taking your dog to all of the places that you can possibly get away with taking him to, right? However, I can guarantee that your dog does not always enjoy these places/events/situations as you would have hoped. Too many people, too much noise, people being intrusive into his personal space, scary looking actions, etc. all contribute to a recipe for a very stressed dog. Sometimes this is visible outwardly, sometimes not so much.
“He doesn’t know his commands”. That phrase makes me cringe, dear dog parents. Dogs don’t come to you knowing what words and phrases mean. It’s up to you to teach them. But before the words are used, teach the behaviors and THEN attach the meaning to the words. And then instead of calling them commands, call them cues. Because that is what they really are. A signal, whether environmental or verbal that triggers the dog into a specific behavior that you have taught.
I was in Corona, yesterday with a Home Dog Training client and their rambunctious Poodlenamed Brodie. Like many poodles, Brodie was a little animated and loved to jump on people, run to the door barking, pulling on the leash and lunging at other dogs. At our first session, the family learned what to do to stop her from jumping, running to the door barking, to walk nicely on the leash, etc. Brodie’s problem was that he felt he was in charge of his human/dog pack, and didn’t respect or obey his owners because he didn’t have any leadership or guidance from them. Fortunately, they now have the right tools and know how to provide proper leadership and effectively begin training her every day.
As I was leaving, one of my client’s neighbors approached me as I was getting in my car. He wanted to know about the training. He said he was always busy and wanted me to train his eight-month old boxer. He said he would even give me a key so I could get into the house to train when he was not home. I explained to my client’s neighbor that there are many dog trainers who say “they will train and fix your dog” so that you will have a “great family dog”. That is not the way that I view the situation. Dog training is about building a relationship between you and your dog. Training is not a “fix” for your dog that’s trained, by someone else’s sometimes, questionable methods. Training builds an amazing bond – your dog should mind you because they want to! Training is not a task that once completed its over – it’s a lifetime interaction.
Some owners choose the Board & Train method because they are too busy to train the dog themselves. If you do not have time to spend with your dog, please do not get one. This is one of those “Tips” I have learned over the years. Be very careful of someone who says they can “fix” all your dog’s problems if the dog lives with them or in their kennel for a specific period of time. Please understand that there are a lot of GREAT dog trainers out there! But my experience with this kind of training (even from a trainer’s perspective) is not good.
Kennel Training. Why this is not good… Usually this is very expensive and usually it is “guaranteed”. It is guaranteed, because the dog will obey the trainer, but will they obey you? I could charge you $3000 for a couple weeks of “guaranteed” training and promise to fix any problem. But one of the problems is that the dog will work for ME. It is true that I can train dogs to be great dogs. They won’t jump on people or steal food from the table. They will walk nicely with me, obey obedience commands, and not bark insensately at the neighbors. None of these things are overly difficult if the appropriate relationship of bond, trust, and respect have been established between me and the dog. But…That doesn’t mean YOU will have all these attributes when your dog comes home. Ultimately they are going to live with YOU not me!
Life in the Kennel… How often do you think your pup will come out of his crate or kennel? Most often, it is only once (maybe twice) per day for 15 minutes to an hour, if he is lucky. The rest of the time he will be sitting in a kennel. Remember how I said I only need a few minutes to work miracles with your dog? Even if he was living with me that is all I would need. The odds of interaction are not in your dog’s favor!!! Even if your trainer swears they will live with him, be leery!
Compulsion is Faster Beware! Compulsion; prong collars, choke chains, and shock collars are faster and the trainer doesn’t have to deal with the repercussions later in the training process. At Leader of the Pack Home Dog Training, we NEVER use these methods.
Want a Happy, Well-Behaved Dog? Learn to train them yourself! In order for your dog to change and obey you — YOU need to be involved. Your pup needs/wants to do what YOU tell them to do. Once you know the methods of leadership and techniques to train your dog, it should only take about 30 minutes per day working with your dog. These learned techniques you can use throughout your life, with all of your dogs. Training your dog yourself, is exactly what you should do to have a happy, well behaved and obedient dog who WANTS to obey you. It is up to you. As your “dog’s trainer”, I can teach and guide you in the right direction. You should take the journey. And, by the way, it is really a wonderful journey! So, when you think “I need a dog trainer for my crazy dog”, you are really asking for a trainer for yourself.
About Wendy’s First Dog Training Experience: When I was a 12 years old I got my first dog. My mother took me to a dog trainer who wouldn’t accept me into her school, she said I was too young and wouldn’t follow through. I promised her that I would. The trainer never touched my dog, she showed me what to do and I practiced. By the time I was 15, my girl “Bebe” and I achieved the AKC Obedience Title “Companion Dog”. Bebe and I had the best relationship possible; it was a wonderful, memorable learning experience.
Halloween can be a scary and dangerous time for dogs. Please keep Halloween fun and safe for you and your dog.
GHOSTS AND GOBLINS AREN’T SCARY. You dog does not see ghosts and goblins every day. He has no idea what they are and could react in a protective mode. Wear your costumes for a few days around him so he gets accustomed to those “weird creatures”.
KEEP YOUR DOG INSIDE. Even if you have a fenced yard, the strange shadows and sounds can scare and aggravate your dog. Have him inside, away from the door with a family member to reassure him.
KEEP YOUR DOG UNDER YOUR CONTROL. Make sure he is with a family member or in his crate during the festivities. It is important to provide the consistency of an environment he is used to and feels safe in.
GIVE YOUR DOG ATTENTION. If your dog seems unsure or pensive because of the Halloween activities, provide him with extra attention. Put him on a leash and walk around the house, play with him in a back room or sit and watch some TV with him.
CHECK YOUR DOG’S ID TAGS. Even though you might have your dog in the house and think everything is fine, you will be opening and closing the front door many times during the evening. Make sure that your dog has his ID tags on his collar and his collar is firmly around his neck. If he is not in your direct line of sight, check on him often. Even though you think he is with the kids, you never know.
WATCH OUT FOR PUMPKINS AND CANDLES. Chances are that your dog will get excited or agi-tated sometime during the evening. This could cause him to knock over a Halloween candle or lit pumpkin. Think of using battery-powered candles this year.
DRESSING YOUR DOG IN COSTUME. Just because you like to get dressed up, it doesn’t mean your dog wants to get into that pirate costume. If your dog gets agitated when you are put-ting on the costume, don’t do it. If you really want to dress him up, put a bandana around his neck or bow in her fur.
CANDY AND DOGS DON’T MIX. We love chocolate and nuts and sweets and all other types of candies. The problem with Halloween is that there is just so much of all those things. We leave them out or drop them on the ground for our dogs to easily find and eat. Chocolate and many artificial sweeteners found in candy are poisonous to dogs. Swallowing the wrappers can also cause gastronomic issues. Be sure to keep all candies high and away from your dog. If your dog starts to throw up or seem overly listless, call your veterinarian as soon as possible.
CONSIDER YOUR DOG IN YOUR ACTIVITIES. Many people think it is really fun to take their dogs with them while trick-or-treating. Watch out because this could be instilling ongoing fear and aggression with them. They don’t understand that the ghost leaping at them from the dark doesn’t want to hurt them or you. Strange, little hobgoblins poking them can make them uneasy. Keep your dog on a short leash and always ask people to stay calm and keep their distance, unless invited.
PLEASE … make a plan for your precious pets and avoid a potential calamity!
– Make it impossible for your dog to wiggle out; leash them (and hold the leash securely) or, better yet, put them in another room.
– Make sure your dog is wearing a collar with your current phone number and any other important contact info.
– If your dog is microchipped, verify that your information on file with the company is current and accurate.
– If you must put your dog in the backyard during the festivities, please make sure your fence is secure and your gate securely latched and locked.
– Remember, too, that CHOCOLATE and XYLITOL (a sweetener found in many candies) are TOXIC to dogs and cats, as are macadamia nuts, raisins and grapes. Make sure you do not leave candy anywhere they can get to it … including a purse!
Recognizing Behavior Patterns Key to Understanding and Solving Aggressive Dog Issues
Dogs aren’t born aggressive—but when aggression occurs, especially toward humans, the problem must be dealt with firmly. For both safety and liability reasons, aggression is among the most serious issues dog training professionals are asked to address.
Nationwide statistics underscore the potential danger of dog bites. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, nearly five million Americans suffer from dog bites each year. On average, 800,000 people are injured seriously enough each year to require medical attention. Sixty-one percent of dog bites occur within pet owners’ homes and 43 percent of all dog bites involve children bitten by the family dog. These numbers are both staggering and alarming, highlighting the need for public awareness and education.
Dog aggression is a behavioral pattern, not a personality type. This means one breed is not necessarily more aggressive than any other. By and large, aggression is situational, and more than 90 percent of the time dog aggression is a reaction based on fear. I have treated all breeds of dogs for aggression and found that the diminutive Chihuahua can be just as aggressive as the much larger Rottweiler or German shepherd. Clearly, the larger dogs can instill more fear and potentially cause more harm because of their size and strength. But the root causes of the behavior are the same—and nearly all can be addressed with proper training.
Unfortunately, many dogs are euthanized for behavior problems that could have been corrected. Dogs may bite for many reasons—most bite out of fear, but there are other types of aggression. Whether a dog has bitten a family member or a stranger out of fear or to show dominance, the problem is serious. If your dog displays any of the following behavioral patterns, seek the advice of a professional immediately.
Fear-based aggression is the most common form of aggression. Typically this will happen when a dog misunderstands a threat in its environment. This triggers his “fight or flight” instinct. Dogs that bite and growl out of fear tend to be under-socialized, or have had bad experiences and negative memories. These canines feel uneasy when approached by strangers or when little children run up to them. Although they’d prefer to run away, they may feel cornered—and that’s when bites may occur. Also, people who try to break up fights between dogs are often the victims of misdirected aggression. This is a common situation, resulting in accidental bites from dogs that are otherwise wonderful, loving pets.
A dog exhibiting dominance aggression is most likely to direct his inappropriate behavior to his family members. A dominant canine thinks he is the head of the household. To show this, he may refuse to get off the couch or bed. Should you attempt to remove him, he will growl and bite.
Does your dog growl or snap if you get too close during feeding or when he’s playing with his favorite toy? If so, he is displaying possession aggression. Canines exhibiting this behavioral problem do not trust anyone with, or even near, their favorite toy, food or person. A dog that does not allow you near him while he is eating must be corrected. If a dog is overly possessive of a person, that person must be the one to correct the dog.
Predatory aggression, often seen in herding breeds, stems from an instinct to chase prey and bring it down. Some dogs may go after cats, squirrels, or livestock—especially if these animals are on the move. In worst cases, dogs exhibiting predatory aggression may go after small children. Be aware if your dog routinely becomes intensely fixated on an object as fixating can result in a chase or attack.
Any dog can exhibit pain-induced aggression. Some dogs that experience chronic pain from a number of medical or physical conditions can develop aggressive tendencies as a way to protect themselves from the pain caused by handling. Be aware if your dog displays any kind of physical discomfort. Dogs suffering from trauma may also bite their owners. If your usually mild-mannered dog has been in an accident, do not trust that he won’t bite.
A dog that growls, barks and bites at joggers or cyclists near his home is exhibiting territorial aggression. This behavior can also be directed at anyone new to the house, such as mail carriers or guests. These canines are fine once the potential threat has left their territory, but they can be especially tough on visitors. Typically a dog will bark to warn of an intruder, but if a dog continues to feel threatened, he is more likely to attack to defend himself.
If your dog has a problem with aggression, call a professional trainer or animal behaviorist. I also recommend enrolling your puppy in obedience class or bringing him to visit My Little Pack of Dog Trainers for aplay session. This will expose your dog to other people and other dogs. And, most importantly, he will learn to follow the commands of his pack leader—you.
Wendy Blanch is the owner and dog behavior therapist and trainer with Leader of the Pack Home Dog Training. 951-339-1040. [email protected]
Recently, I have seen an increased number of people either looking for their lost pets or lost dogs looking for their owners posted on Facebook. Obviously, the very best ways to retrieve your pet is collar tags, but most importantly by microchipping your pet. The likely-hood of finding your pet can be greatly increased with proper identification. Tags are important to keep on your pets collar, but they can be damaged and lost. A microchip stays with your dog forever. It is heartbreaking to loose a pet. The avenues that you must investigate can be exhausting. Newspaper ads for lost pets, searching the neighborhood, posting flyers, visiting the numerous shelters and fosters nearby. Many times your dog might be just a step behind you when visiting the shelters. Sometimes dogs are shipped to other shelters that have more room and the chances of you finding them at that point is unlikely.Without proper identification the chances of finding a lost pet are as low as one in five. In a recent study involving over 7,700 stray pets, the number of non-microchipped dogs that were safely returned to their owners was just under 22%.For about a one-time cost of $45 at your local veterinarian, a microchip can be injected into the dog. The chip will last for over 25 years, which is well beyond the lifespan of all but the most exceptional hounds.
YOU MUST REGISTER THE CHIP WITH THE MICROCHIP COMPANY!
The chances of finding your pet increase by nearly 30%: The same study of 7,700 stray pets revealed that dogs with implanted microchips have a 51.2% chance of being reunited with their owners, a near 30% increase over those without. How the Microchips Work: The brilliance of a microchip implant is its simplicity. No bigger than a grain of rice, a pet microchip is a radio-frequency identification transponder made up of just a few components encased within a slender capsule of bioglass, which is used extensively for implants in both humans and animals. Some microchips have anti-migration features to ensure capsules stay in place by bonding with the tissue under the animal’s skin.A microchip’s sole function is to store a unique ID number that is used to retrieve a pet parent’s contact information—it differs from a Global Positioning System, which is used for tracking, and requires a power source such as a battery.When a microchip scanner is passed over the skin of a microchipped pet, the implanted microchip emits an RF (radio frequency) signal. The scanner reads the microchip’s unique ID code. The microchip registry is called, and the registry company uses the ID number to retrieve the pet parent’s contact information from the pet recovery database.Most animal shelters and veterinary hospitals in the U.S. have global scanners that read pet microchips from most manufacturers. Once the shelter or veterinarian scan the dog, they will retrieve the identification information and the owners will be contacted!Remember too, if you find a stray dog or cat, take it to your nearest veterinarian or animal shelter and ask them to scan the animal for identification.
PLEASE … make a plan for your precious pets and avoid a potential calamity!